dude. if wrapping up work wasn’t fun enough, the hoop-jumping involved just to enjoy a simple little trip on the roof of the world is kind of silly. I understand the need to impose a bit of order in an area you might consider sensitive, but implementing that order shouldn’t be chaos itself. At least, it shouldn’t be if you are serious about an open, integrated economy.

I am talking about the permit system, which dictates where and when you are allowed to travel within the confines of the Tibetan Autonomous Region. Here in Xining, the only place to purchase this permit is, according to a sign at the train station, the Provincial Tourism Bureau. Of course no one at this bureau knows how to arrange the permit, but will be happy to point you in the direction of room 202 at the Xining Hotel, where some enterprising soul has completely monopolized the scene and is charging $200. All this trouble for a piece of paper that, according to many who have used it recently, is ignored once you are safely on your bus/train/airplane.

That this is little more than an exercise in lining the pockets of lucky permit arrangers is beside the point: it is annoying and symptomatic of the larger problems in western China. I hope this changes before two aught aught eight brings the expected goldmine of novice travelers. I suppose the Tibetan tourism confusitron certainly dovetails nicely with any hypothetical, hidden agendas to slow development and modernization in the area. But, as the official party line is that opening the area is a Good Thing, obstacles for curious foreigners should not (politically speaking) abound in such numbers.

Anyway, call Mr. Lin at 13519705578, 09718245548, or 09718247377 if you are in Xining and would like to arrange a permit for 50 bucks (400 RMB).

Other logistical challenges on the horizon: changing my salary from RMB to dollars, getting my laptop stateside via friendly frequent fliers, obtaining a permit for Nepal, negotiating with Maoists (should I decide to trek, see this encouraging item) and of course selling my bike and cleaning my chamberpot. I can take pictures of the last item if you’d like, yum