Not everything in this world goes off without a hitch. In fact, lately, it has been quite a struggle to keep up with the staggering number of little failures plaguing my life. *sigh* another silly story about some dude’s problems. Nope. I’m just going to allude to them to provide a general mental context, then proceed to tell you about something completely different, and frustratingly so.

Thanksgiving, usually composed of many familia around a large table cobbled out of many smaller ones and covered with an amazingly large, totally delicious, and entirely expected (read: anticipated) spread.

This year the tradition amounted to barely more than a nod, though efforts were made otherwise. Sitting in the Pasayten Wilderness of north central Washington, hunkered down in the tent as rather large flakes of snow drift their lazy paths through the air, we chow. Squash, stuffing, lemon-herb duck, and almond rocca (a story in itself) for dessert. Winter camping being what it is, I had cooked accordingly, but perhaps too well. The squash and stuffing combined contained over a stick and a half of butter. That, in ~4 serving of each averages to approximately 6 tablespoons per bite. At least, that was the oily perception of pissed off taste-buds. This spread got tossed (though the duck was delicious). This, just one of many shortcomings on an arduous trip. The good stuff (pics) are forthcoming, but for now, google earthers will have to be happy with this: Robinson Mountain (zipped kml).
…

ps, unbeknownst to a few, my nickname in high school for several years switched between “fluffy”, “jesus”, and “peanut butter and fluff” (pbaf) Silly folken never did realize that they got the pbaf wrong, as my initials area actually pabf, in which case it would be “peanut and butter fluff” which is just as well. Additionally, the word ‘methalate’ has recently been added to my vocabulary, you should do the same. In the meantime, we should all satisfy ourselves with being jealous over the pictorially amazing adventures of the ma in madape.

The superlatives come fast and thick out here, sorry. Her proper name is Qomolangma, or Everest for the us culturally impaired westerners

Arrived in Kathmandu after a five day trip south from Lhasa. We spent a night at Rongphu monastery, about 8km from the base of Everest, and hiked there the next day. As you can see, the scenery is dull and colorless. But there is no denying a rush of being so close to the highest point on earth.

We spent our fourth and last night on the plateau in Tingiri, a truck stop just inside the Qomolangma Nature Reserve. Two days ago we left at 7am and completed the 200 km trip to the border. I understand why someone might want to do this trip on a bike: after Nyarong, the plateau drops all the way to the border. Maybe 50k of downhill? The change from barren tan ridges to dense forest is also an emotional experience. Or it was for me, after such a long time without green.

Kathmandu is crowded and completely different from the empty highs of the plateau. I wasn’t expecting such a mix of people, noise, cars, tourists, dharma freaks, mexican food and samosas. It’s overwhelming, but I think I could like it if I wasn’t so ready for a rest.

Had an interesting first day, yesterday. Visited Durbar square in the morning, then went to Boudnath to drop off a package for a friend’s cousin in the Tibetan section of town. Later in the evening, met the cousin of another friend, involved in the restoration of Buddhist sculptures in Paris. Ended with live jazz at some hipster joint, with a local Newari guy who has started his own community association to teach young people about Newari culture.

The plan is to catch an early bus tomorrow to the Annapurna circuit and hike at least to Manang.

Other madapes: where you at?

First, pictures, pictures, and probably more pictures later if the other lads send their links.

I am back, in one piece, and happy that I made the trip. Even if it was a wee bit chilli. The journey out west was an excellent way to see another part of the plateau, both geographically and culturally. It also gave me some insight on how the complicated Tibet/tourism thing works. And of course, it was a good way to relax after two years of work in the area…

It seems the roads most traveled in the Tibetan Autonomous Region are those by unwashed backpackers and well-groomed tourists, flying in for their piece of the mythos. There are also the pilgrims, but foreigners don’t follow their roads too often. Lhasa is an interesting city, not just for it’s historical and religious significance, but because it really is the most popular tourist city in the Chinese sphere. This might seem a little too bloodless-technocrat, but it really struck me as an important aspect of the Tibet scene. You are more likely to meet China and Tibet newbies here than anywhere else, and they are more likely to know little about the place they are visiting than any other city in mainland China. There is some long-term significance to this.

At the same time, while outside influence flows through the streets alongside pilgrims and locals, Lhasa is the most tightly controlled and ideologically planned city in the Chinese sphere of influence.

This makes visiting an interesting experience for me. I couldn’t relax too much, partly because there was so much to see and do, and partly because I kept looking at the city for lessons on how to do tourism well, or not well; looking for connections between the outside visitors and the local culture. There is a bigger question bubbling in my head about how the globalizing travel will affect traditional cultures, but I can’t articulate it right now.

This, plus some intense reflection on the last two years of work, was my state of mind when I set out for Mount Kailash. This is a road not-so-much traveled by the aforementioned masses, but still I found it easy to scrape together a group of likeminded travelers, solo guys who were looking to do something slightly adventurous and interesting. After posting on the message boards in hostels around the city, and on the lonelyplanet’s very useful thorntree forum, I found an Israeli, a Brit, and a Brazilian. Our troupe hired a landcruiser and spent four days traveling to Darchen, the small town at the foot of Mount Kailash.

I won’t bore you with the details, but the highlight of the trip was certainly the three day, 52 kilometer trek around the mountain. Normally the kora (the clockwise circuit made by devout Buddhists) can be done in a day or two, but we were all of us a tad ill, and somewhat affected by the altitude. The mountain, although not high, makes an impressive snow-covered impression against the deep blue skies. As the center of the universe for both Buddhists and Hindus (and Jains and Bons), four legendary rivers are meant to originate from its flanks. And in reality, four do, making this an interesting intersection between the mythos, the worshipper, and the tourist.

Besides our leisurely stroll around the mountain, we also spent a day at the analogous Lake Manasarovar, the yannic equivalent to Kailash’s fully revealed power. It’s also a nice big blue lake, filled with migratory birds and ringed by Himalayan mountains. Both were great places to reflect, and to chill out.

Of course, it wasn’t all hard work and deep, meaningful gazes into the distance. We spent an unhealthy amount of time playing whist and hearts. I am now known as Card Vader, so don’t mess with me. We also exchanged useful information. For example, did you know:

-In Jaffa, there is an old man who makes the best hummus in the middle east. He sells out by 10am, so get there early

-A British battalion contains 600 soldiers

-The most popular drink in Brazil is the caipirinha. Mix cachaca, lemon, sugar, and ice

and so on

In the last few days, we have made our way back to Lhasa, and re-grouped. Israel is out, and the Czech Republic is now in the house. The route has turned south, visiting Gyantse, Sakya, Everest Base Camp, and on to the Nepal border. Life is rough

Happy thanksgiving

a few weeks ago, I proclaimed (not so loudly) an ultimate sabbatical. No, this doesn’t mean a week in tahiti, or that I’ll be allowed to walk around in my skivvies (even during visiting hours), but rather that disc and I were on the skids; having a bit of a row, and not exactly lovin’ it. Anyways, see where my brain was yesterday…. lord, save my flat, nearly two dimensional, uniformally circular soul!

To provide a context:

the landcruiser is running outside, I’ve got a group of three travelers willing to put up with the cold.  we’re headed to mount kailash for a 12 day trip, so no communiques from me for a while.

lhasa is kind of chilly, but we’re expected Vermont-like temperatures up at 4500 meters.  now that’s cold.   congratulations to all the democrats out there, and to mom who is now an official justice of the peace.  hooray for peace

Half-empty train, about 13 cars total. I had the fortune (?) of sharing a car with a tour group from Guangdong. Their group gasps every time something new rolled into view had me wondering why they didn’t asphyxiate. (Not that I wanted them to)

Example:

(mountain passes by)

First Guandong tourist: oooooo! a mountain

30 Guangdong tourists (in unison): ooooooooooooooooOOOOOOO!

Anyway, the peculiar mass-psychology of certain tourist types aside, the train is an excellent introduction to Tibetan geography. Highly recommended if you have the time, and haven’t visited the area before. 26 hours from Xining, and at least double that from any other city. I’m in Lhasa now finishing some work and arranging a trip to Mt. Kailash. More pictures, all taken from the train can be seen here.