First, pictures, pictures, and probably more pictures later if the other lads send their links.

I am back, in one piece, and happy that I made the trip. Even if it was a wee bit chilli. The journey out west was an excellent way to see another part of the plateau, both geographically and culturally. It also gave me some insight on how the complicated Tibet/tourism thing works. And of course, it was a good way to relax after two years of work in the area…

It seems the roads most traveled in the Tibetan Autonomous Region are those by unwashed backpackers and well-groomed tourists, flying in for their piece of the mythos. There are also the pilgrims, but foreigners don’t follow their roads too often. Lhasa is an interesting city, not just for it’s historical and religious significance, but because it really is the most popular tourist city in the Chinese sphere. This might seem a little too bloodless-technocrat, but it really struck me as an important aspect of the Tibet scene. You are more likely to meet China and Tibet newbies here than anywhere else, and they are more likely to know little about the place they are visiting than any other city in mainland China. There is some long-term significance to this.

At the same time, while outside influence flows through the streets alongside pilgrims and locals, Lhasa is the most tightly controlled and ideologically planned city in the Chinese sphere of influence.

This makes visiting an interesting experience for me. I couldn’t relax too much, partly because there was so much to see and do, and partly because I kept looking at the city for lessons on how to do tourism well, or not well; looking for connections between the outside visitors and the local culture. There is a bigger question bubbling in my head about how the globalizing travel will affect traditional cultures, but I can’t articulate it right now.

This, plus some intense reflection on the last two years of work, was my state of mind when I set out for Mount Kailash. This is a road not-so-much traveled by the aforementioned masses, but still I found it easy to scrape together a group of likeminded travelers, solo guys who were looking to do something slightly adventurous and interesting. After posting on the message boards in hostels around the city, and on the lonelyplanet’s very useful thorntree forum, I found an Israeli, a Brit, and a Brazilian. Our troupe hired a landcruiser and spent four days traveling to Darchen, the small town at the foot of Mount Kailash.

I won’t bore you with the details, but the highlight of the trip was certainly the three day, 52 kilometer trek around the mountain. Normally the kora (the clockwise circuit made by devout Buddhists) can be done in a day or two, but we were all of us a tad ill, and somewhat affected by the altitude. The mountain, although not high, makes an impressive snow-covered impression against the deep blue skies. As the center of the universe for both Buddhists and Hindus (and Jains and Bons), four legendary rivers are meant to originate from its flanks. And in reality, four do, making this an interesting intersection between the mythos, the worshipper, and the tourist.

Besides our leisurely stroll around the mountain, we also spent a day at the analogous Lake Manasarovar, the yannic equivalent to Kailash’s fully revealed power. It’s also a nice big blue lake, filled with migratory birds and ringed by Himalayan mountains. Both were great places to reflect, and to chill out.

Of course, it wasn’t all hard work and deep, meaningful gazes into the distance. We spent an unhealthy amount of time playing whist and hearts. I am now known as Card Vader, so don’t mess with me. We also exchanged useful information. For example, did you know:

-In Jaffa, there is an old man who makes the best hummus in the middle east. He sells out by 10am, so get there early

-A British battalion contains 600 soldiers

-The most popular drink in Brazil is the caipirinha. Mix cachaca, lemon, sugar, and ice

and so on

In the last few days, we have made our way back to Lhasa, and re-grouped. Israel is out, and the Czech Republic is now in the house. The route has turned south, visiting Gyantse, Sakya, Everest Base Camp, and on to the Nepal border. Life is rough

Happy thanksgiving