The superlatives come fast and thick out here, sorry. Her proper name is Qomolangma, or Everest for the us culturally impaired westerners

Arrived in Kathmandu after a five day trip south from Lhasa. We spent a night at Rongphu monastery, about 8km from the base of Everest, and hiked there the next day. As you can see, the scenery is dull and colorless. But there is no denying a rush of being so close to the highest point on earth.

We spent our fourth and last night on the plateau in Tingiri, a truck stop just inside the Qomolangma Nature Reserve. Two days ago we left at 7am and completed the 200 km trip to the border. I understand why someone might want to do this trip on a bike: after Nyarong, the plateau drops all the way to the border. Maybe 50k of downhill? The change from barren tan ridges to dense forest is also an emotional experience. Or it was for me, after such a long time without green.

Kathmandu is crowded and completely different from the empty highs of the plateau. I wasn’t expecting such a mix of people, noise, cars, tourists, dharma freaks, mexican food and samosas. It’s overwhelming, but I think I could like it if I wasn’t so ready for a rest.

Had an interesting first day, yesterday. Visited Durbar square in the morning, then went to Boudnath to drop off a package for a friend’s cousin in the Tibetan section of town. Later in the evening, met the cousin of another friend, involved in the restoration of Buddhist sculptures in Paris. Ended with live jazz at some hipster joint, with a local Newari guy who has started his own community association to teach young people about Newari culture.

The plan is to catch an early bus tomorrow to the Annapurna circuit and hike at least to Manang.

Other madapes: where you at?